A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. The North East Buttress of Mt. Vancouver Mountain Guides has an exceptional amount of experience on this mountain and will get you to the summit this summer. Slesse SW Face (Slesse110504-1adj.jpg) Slesse NE Face (Slesse041205-02adj.jpg) Slesse NE Face (Slesse041205-29adj.jpg) Slesse, Upper NE Buttress (Slesse041205-57adj.jpg) Slesse on March 6, 2015, hoping to climb the oft-attempted but unclimbed Heart of Darkness on Slesse’s north side. The geology of the mountain contains several different types of rock, while the well traveled routes may be comparatively clean they still have some rockfall hazard. Slesse Mountain is a prominent peak in the Pacific Northwest's North Cascades, two miles north of the British Columbia-U.S. border, close to the same longitude as Mt. For the East side routes drive East on the Chilliwack Lake road for 19 miles (30km) to the Nesakwatch Creek road. Slesse by 12noon and descend the west face ledges via downclimbing and rappels. Two days were spent waiting out a storm 250 feet below the summit. This climb involves climbing on one side of the mountain and descending on the other side so a car shuttle is preferred unless you can swing a helicopter pick up. Your guide will complete a gear check, and have you sign a waiver. For example, the The Heart of Darkness is a very obvious feature: a giant gash that goes straight up between the Northeast Buttress and North Rib. The primary rock which is found on many of the climbing routes on Slesse is grey diorite from the Batholith. Pieces can break off and slide and many times the entire bypass glacier will cut loose and slide off all at once. Cross slabs arriving at bypass ledges by 10am. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. I looked quickly where it was located, grabbed my… The peak is best climbed in June - September months, but it can storm/snow even in the middle of summer, rain and fog cover being the most frequent reasons for aborted attempts. Crossover descent slid in August 2019, go out Slesse Creek drainage or prepare for a new adventure out... --RCB, Slesse East Side Routes, photo/topos by Drew Brayshaw, Slesse Area Road/Trail Map, by Steph, Sept.2007, Routes Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. It is hard to resist a sunny day. Follow Crossover Pass descent arriving back at car by 8pm. Do not rely solely on the information/descriptions contained on these pages. Slesse in the North Cascades, VMG will safely and skillfully get you to the top and back down. Note: this trail is different from the Slesse Memorial Trail. Dylan Johnson and I drove to Mt. These pages are only a guide to the climbs, a composite opinion from many sources, some of which may not be accurate. These risks can cause personal injury or death, and must be undertaken only with adequate gear, skills, and experience. Slesse, meaning "fang" in the Halkomelem language, looms above the approaching climber like the immense fang of some lone, snarling wolf. http://www.for.gov.bc.ca/dck/Engineering/FSR_Conditions.htm. (7), Additions & Corrections Join us to hear local climbers Bill Dudley and Naz Ahmed relive their epic climb up Mt. Perry Beckham, Greg Child and Joe Buszowski attempted the route in the early 1980s and dubbed the couloir between the Northeast Ridge and North Rib, the Heart of Darkness. Slesse: After returning to Slesse, Sarah starting up our climb of the South Peak: Halfway up the southeast side of the South Peak: Sarah nearing the summit of the South Peak of Slesse: Sarah making the second of two rappels off the South Peak, into the notch between the South Peak and the main summit: Many variations are possible. Mt. "The blind climber talks about gear because he can't see the mountains." Tom described the climb as follows: 'It's given 6b and is all on trad gear. Hear experienced local climbers Bill Dudley and Naz Ahmed relive their epic climb up Mt. Canadian Forest Service Road Conditions. Climbing Mt. ... Matt, and he said while it can be a challenging climb, it's well worth undertaking for those interested in the history of the crash. The B.C. Take the right fork for 2.5 miles (4 km) to where the road is washed out. Welcome to Mt. Some runout but fortunately easy face climbing, just before joining the standard Northeast Buttress start: Sarah on the Northeast Buttress above the 5.10 direct variation: High on the Northeast Buttress in the mist: Sarah on the summit of Mt. The NE Ridge, the outlined jaw of this wolf, rises nearly 2,500 feet to the summit of Mt. Adding to the thrill of climbing Mt. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. Summit views into the North Cascade Range (Northern Pickets sub-range and other peaks) are unique and wild. Slesse. In particular the popular NE Buttress. VMG guides have climbed Mt. Sunday:Alpine start. Climbing by 6am. It is a mix of 4th class and moderate (5.7-5.8) 5th class climbing. Find the marked climber's path to the Western and Southern routes. Find climber's paths to your intended route. Fred Beckey Posted on: March 1, 2007. Climber tells tale of rescue from Mt. Climb a Grade V with a complete stranger? The only way to be absolutely sure is to wait until the bypass glacier slides off completely, usually in late season, although this doesn't happen every year. Suggested pre-requisite routes are: Squamish Buttress 5.9, Angels Crest 5.10b, Ultimate Everything 5.10b, Yak Chek 5.9. clothing (synthetic), thin toque & gloves, personnel items (ie. Printer Friendly Version Digg it. We were going to climb it via the bypass route, thereby eliminating the first 5 or 6 pitches, that by all accounts didn’t seem that “classic”. Mount Slesse Memorial Trail is a 9.5 mile moderately trafficked out and back trail located near Fraser Valley E, British Columbia, Canada that features a waterfall and is rated as difficult. The Climb Our plan was to climb Slesse over two days, bivying about ¾ of the way up the first day. We bivied at the Propeller Cairn, then climbed the NE Buttress, descended the West side to a stashed car in Slesse Creek and had a good long sleep. All Rights Reserved. A 4x4 is recommended on Nesakwatch Creek Road as it has multiple areas where washouts have come across the road and left behind large rocks and there are large dips in the road that may damage low clearance vehicles. Slesse Hike - See 64 traveler reviews, 42 candid photos, and great deals for Chilliwack, Canada, at Tripadvisor. Photos: What Mount Slesse, site of the Flight 810 crash, looks like from the ground today. Slesse. More than one climber has been killed by icefall from the bypass glacier.1980 Fatality from hanging glacier icefall, page 62-63 of the PDF (large download).2007 Fatality from hanging glacier icefall. For the full buttress go straight down from the first memorial. Slesse - NE Buttress On Saturday, July 28, Chad Kellogg and I made an ascent of the NE Buttress of Mt. After the pocket glacier slides. Slesse - Northeast Buttress Date: 8/21/2013 Trip Report: This report is a long time coming. All artifacts are to be preserved in their current place and any disturbance or removal is illegal. The initial descent off the summit area remains the same. Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' Optionally a new route on the eastside (Crack Of Noon Club 5.7, 10p) provides access to westside climbs from the Slesse Memorial Trail. The climb generally follows the crest moving back and forth, and going around a prominent gendarme. The crash wasn't even found until May when some climbers came across pieces of the plane. Mt. You will take 2 days to ascend and descend the route. Plush bivi spot on route approximately 1/2 way. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. https://www.alltrails.com/trail/canada/british-columbia/mt-slesse-memorial-site Buckaroo - Oct 1, 2008 12:24 am - Hasn't voted Credit. Sounds like a good idea to me, so I head to Mt Slesse … This is the (partially hikeable) climbers trail located on the West side of the mountain. town of Chilliwack to the NW is the nearest large community.This mountain made the news in December 1956 when the Trans Canada Airlines flight 810 lost an engine and became iced in winter storm conditions, got off-route trying to return to the Vancouver airport, and crashed on Slesse's Eastern flank near the summit killing all 62 people on board. The North East Buttress of Mt. "It's a fantastic hike," Wolgram said. Good physical conditioning. We then hiked up and retrieved our bivy gear and finished with a swim in Chilliwack Lake! One issue in this area is the changing status and condition of forest service roads. Mt Slesse, Northeast Buttress 25-27 August 2005. (2), Images Shuksan. Slesse at a small trailhead with flagging tape. Your guide will provide a waiver you are required to sign before participating. Publication Year: 2018. Turn right here and continue 7kms up the Nesakwatch FSR to the Mt Slesse Memorial Trailhead Parking. Description/photo of Crossover descent.Classic Climbs of the Northwest, Alan KearneyNE Buttress topo/description/photosSelected Climbs in the Cascades, Jim Nelson and Peter PotterfieldNE Buttress topo/description/photos 50 Classic Climbs of North America Route description and photos (out of print), Slesse is a big mountain in an area of often times nasty weather, pay attention to the forecast but don't rely on it. Shuksan. It may be better to only approach in the early hours of dawn and/or when temps are cooler, although slides can happen at any time. Bivy ledges can be found on most routes and the summit. Mt. Slesse NE Buttress 5.9 is the pinnacle for many rock climbers. The remnants of the crash are still present on and below the mountain and the area is protected under the BC Heritage Conservation Act. The logistics of such a big route are daunting. Most of which periodically release and slide into the lower basin below the NE Buttress.There seems to be some discrepancy about the actual elevation of Mt Slesse between all the various references both hard-copy and online. FWA Feb 1955 of the Southwest route by Fips Broda and John Dudra. On the NE Buttress numerous bivy spots can be found all along the route, the best being the large ledge at mid height. At about 4 a.m. the next morning we were off and hiking by headlamp. Full-resolution color prints are available by request. Had the pleasure of guiding the NE Buttress of Mt Slesse on August 23 with a strong guest. After helicoptering to the base, the pair spent the next seven days on the route. For example, its west face drops over 1,950 m (6,398 ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3 km (2 mi). The Heart of Darkness is a very obvious feature: a giant gash that goes straight up between the Northeast Buttress and North Rib. Slesse Middle School Mount Slesse Middle School is a grade 6 through grade 8 school in School District #33, Chilliwack, British Columbia, Canada. Some of the routes and approaches on Slesse are threatened by hanging glaciers. From the 8km mark on the Slesse FSR, continue on a footpath following an old logging road, south for 3 km. (2 ), A nice photo TR of the North Face Couloir, Northeast Buttress of Slesse - A Long Way Down. Eric stands before the memorial for the 1956 plane that crashed into Mt Slesse. Slesse (British Columbia) THE IMAGES PRESENTED HERE HAVE BEEN DOWN-SIZED FROM THE ORIGINAL DIGITAL FILES. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Since I'm moving to Salt Lake City on Saturday to begin a new career as a nurse, I was seeking a climb that would satisfy my adventurous alpine side for awhile. Eat food, rest, hydrate, and take photos. For updates go to this site: Fred McClement was aviation editor of the Toronto Star and a photographer for TCA when Flight 810 disappeared between Vancouver and Calgary on Dec. 9, 1956. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. At this point the trail turns uphill. The various listings are 7792' 7800' 7850' 7969' 8002'. The videos and clips from Mount Slesse Middle School, featuring the Live Show, Spring Production and Assembly videos! For the NE Buttress bypass route continue up the trail and look for cairns. The trail is primarily used for hiking, rock climbing, and snowshoeing and is best used from June until October. Due to the hazardous terrain no attempt was ever made to recover the remains. Participants need to be comfortable seconding 5.9 for long hours with a 20 pound pack. Both the bypass approach and the direct start approach are threatened by the hanging glacier on the bypass. Mt. Slesse 'We had ledges about the size of dinner plates that we were sitting on' Jessica Peters; Sep. 7, 2020 12:00 a.m. Be aware of the objective hazards on and below the hanging glaciers, both the bypass and full buttress approach are threatened.For West side routes take the Slesse Creek Road (dirt as well) to it's end of driving capability. Technically well within the scope of many rock climbers ability (5.9). Mt. Slesse means "fang" in the native Salish tongue, which aptly describes it's spire profile from many directions. Vancouver Mountain Guides will take care of all the details. Slesse means "fang" in the native Salish tongue, which aptly describes it's spire profile from many directions. (61), Climber's Log Entries Slesse. (usually has snow for water until mid August). Slesse NE Buttress is a route inside of Slesse Mountain. Please carefully read and understand the waiver below. Then walk on trail down ridge to Slesse Creek drainage. Mt. Waddington's Outdoors: Mt. The aerial winter Slesse shots are by John Scurlock. Climb Mt. climb on is the official equipment supplier for vmg. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. Image of descent in profile. Slesse Mountain, usually referred to as Mount Slesse, is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack.It is notable for its large, steep local relief. With good weather and relatively warm temperatures, the team skied up to the Mt Slesse area and camped, before attempting the line the next day. "It's a beautiful hike, with great views of … Slesse memorial was in mind for a while. SLESSE. This trail is a beast, climbing straight uphill for 1600m to Mt Slesse. Slesse is deservedly a 50 classic in North America. I mean, what is written about the FSRs on this page may or may not be correct at any given time. Sarah on the summit of Mt. Some of the East side climbs are longer than 20 pitches on steep rock with approaches threatened by the objective hazards of several hanging glaciers. Slesse many times and understand the variables presenting risk in order to guide you efficiently, and safely. Hike another 1.5 miles on the road to the trailhead.The Slesse Memorial Trail is taken to the first memorial site and plaque. Date & Time: Dec 9, 1956 at 1910 LT Type of aircraft: Best description of East side glacier activity. The hanging glaciers are sitting on top of steep polished slabs. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. Bivouac.com A fee site, in-depth information, GPS points, route descriptions, photos, and TR's.50 Crowded Climbs George Bell's NE Buttress TR, '86East Pillar TR July '03NE Buttress TR July '03North Rib TR Aug '04Navigator Wall TR Aug '05NE Buttress TR very detailed, Sept '07Slesse Photos John Scurlock's awesome aerial photos of Slesse in winter.A nice photo TR of the North Face Couloir May 2009, Cascade Alpine Guide (RED) Rainy Pass to Frazier River, 2nd Edition, Fred BeckyTopo's of approach, descent, NE Buttress(detailed topo, bypass & direct), Navigator Wall, and descriptions and photos of several other routes.Alpine Select, Climbs in Southwest British Columbia and Northern Washington, Kevin McLaneNine routes described with photos. We rappelled by scrambling down notch at summit ~30m to boulder With sling followed by 8 rappels with a 70m (Slesse creek side of Mountain). Mt. THE STRANGE LEGACY OF FLIGHT 810’S CRASH ON MT. The North East Buttress of Slesse is still heralded as one of Fred greatest first ascents, even with his undisputed title as being the all-time world-record holder for the number of first ascents credited to one man. The usual descent off the summit is now the Crossover descent. Trip: Mt. There is now a memorial site dedicated to those that lost their lives in that fatal crash.A large part of Slesse is made up of the granitic rocks of the Chilliwack Batholith, which intruded the area after major orogenic episodes of the region beginning around 30 million years ago. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. Dylan Johnson and I drove to Mt. The immense north side was finally climbed via the Northeast Buttress on Aug 26-28, 1963 by Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and Eric Bjornstadt (one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America) AAJ Article.FWA of the NE Buttress, March 1986. Slesse Memorial Trail 6 1/2 Hours 1000 Meter Gain (3280 Feet) 13 KM (8 Mile) Round Trip Chilliwack, British Columbia, … FRED MCCLEMENT. Link Crack Of Noon Club into one of the westside routes to climb to the summit of Mt Slesse. Activity. However the summit ridge and the west face are composed of Darrington Phyllite, produced by contact metamorphism with the rock of the Batholith and with an intrusion of granodiorite.Although not a high elevation summit this mountain's relief is spectacular when viewed from the East and North sides, and it has no "walk up" route, the easiest climbing route being the Southwest (standard) at 5.6. Climbing this peak in winter is very difficult as bad weather systems plague the area and cover the rock in rain, snow, or ice. We climbed up a mountain! ‘We had ledges about the size of dinner plates that we were sitting on’ Slesse NE Buttress (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). 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